Since we moved to our corner of Esquilino, we've been slowly getting to know the local scene: food shops, bars, the food markets, assorted other things (dry cleaners, stationery shops, hairdressers) and, most importantly, trattorie. Of course no trattoria will ever replace our favourite Roman trattoria, complete with worn linoleum floors, 1950s era kitchen and decor, antlers on the wall, the whole family yelling at each other and, of course, an unopened bottle of finance police amaro displayed in a prominent place in the restaurant. Rene has been going there for 10 years and we went there on our first date so it has a special place in our hearts. Besides, their carbonara and ravioli simply cannot be beat. (as an aside - for any single female readers of this blog of a certain age - this trattoria is bachelor/divorced guy of a certain age central- let me know if you'd like to come to dinner with us one night and maybe I can hook you up.)
In fact, I'd hardly noticed this other little place nearby with a big "trattoria' sign outside and 1950s decor inside very similar to but not exactly the same as that that of our Favourite Trattoria. I was therefore kind of excited when our Italian friend, Marco, invited us to have lunch there one day earlier this month. We arranged to meet Marco at the restaurant at 1 so I strapped Astrid into her front carrier and headed over at the appointed hour.
I walked in at around 1.10 to an empty restaurant. The fat, red faced owner rushed out to meet me and said a bit flustered: "you can't have a table. The restaurant is full." Ummm...I looked around -only one table was occupied. I pointed this out to the owner. He looked awkward and said "oh but it will fill up. You've got to have a reservation."
As I was walking out dejectedly with 9 kilos of baby on my front, I ran into Marco and Rene who were just arriving. The owner hugged Marco and was introduced to Rene, Astrid and me. Marco explained that he'd gone to primary school with the owner. We were given a table and proceeded to enjoy a pretty good meal -not as good as the food at our Favourite Trattoria but not bad. All the while, Marco, the owner and Rene proceeded to talk Italian football.
At the end of the meal the owner came by and said "you understand that I only allow people I know to eat here. I didn't know you before so I couldn't let you in, you understand? I don't want any hassles. But since you're a friend of Marco's, you're welcome anytime. Please come back." I guess that was his apology. Well, it was good to know that it wasn't because I'm a 'straniera' (foreigner).
So now I'm in possession of the secret handshake - we know the guy now and can eat there anytime. I interpret this to mean that we've been initiated as real members of the neighbourhood if not as real Romans (finally after 20 years in Rome in the case of my husband!)
But to be really honest I'm not dying to go back to that restaurant. Marco seems to love it but I wonder if the real appeal is being part of the 'in' group, a secret club. And possibly, the fact that the many immigrants who live in Esquilino are, for the most part, excluded. If my theory is true, I guess I'm just not Roman enough to appreciate the exclusivity and family feel of the trattoria. In fact, I think I'd really rather go to the Indian Restaurant around the corner where they're always open, always very friendly and the food is delicious. But is this 'globalisation'? Am I failing to appreciate a part of Italian (or at least Roman) culture by failing to appreciate this exclusive trattoria?
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15 comments:
Okay, does the owner get enough customers in order to make a decent living?? If this is common practice, I think I may never eat out, as I never seem to be part of an 'in' crowd.
Ms Violetta- that's what I wondered but I guess that shows that I'm not a "real Italian". My husband said "well, he probably owns the restaurant outright so he has no need to let people in who he doesn't know so why should he?" I think Rene has lived in Italy for too long - this is such an Italian way of thinking! What I don't get is why it would be such a 'hassle' to have people you don't know in the restaurant - or at least more of hassle than making a few more thousant euros a month. But I guess he interited an apartment and a restaurant and has no need to actually make money- a common situation here it seems.
I see this as a negative. OK, so it's a cute, quaint Italian thing that small communities are so tight-knit, everyone knows everyone else, blah blah blah.... The flip side is this situation. Diffidence towards or even exclusion of those who aren't in the 'inner circle', and segregation for the simple reason that you weren't born on that particular street / in that village / in that town. I think a lot of Italy's problems can be traced to this mentality - raccommandazione, even mafia...
One other thing - is this restaurant not licenced as a "pubblico esercizio"??
As a person who does not know the owner of the restarant is my money not as good as theirs? I cannot even fathom this as a good way to do business, but if the food in this trattoria is not that good as you say maybe he needs to rely on the 'exclusiveness' of his restaurant to even stay in business in the first place.
Thought this might interest you:
http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/food_and_drink/article5622156.ece
Another example of common Italian thinking. I think it's pushing culinary tradition too far.
bizzarre. Haven't heard that one before!
I lived in Esquilino for four years and guess I was never Roman enough to find the secret trattoria! However, I loved the little Korean restaurant we could walk to, and had a favorite Indian too. In fact, we will be there this weekend--yay!
Hmm interesting post. Living in Florence has certainly taught me that you only get 'accepted' into a restaurant or bar etc if you go there at least five times...but never have i been pushed away. I think I wouldn't go back on principle alone, even though the owner wasn't being intentionally rude.
I'm coming to Rome for the 1st time next month with my Mum and 2 sisters and love your blog since I found it. I've been divorced for several yrs and would mind some single/divorced eye candy while there, so would you mind sharing the name of your 1st date restaurant? Pretty please.
Would you mind sharing the name of the divorce central restaurant? Visiting Rome with my Mum and sisters next month (1st visit for me) and single eye candy would be a bonus for me? Really enjoying your blog since discovering.
Miss Golightly - I don't really feel comfortable publishing the name of our favourite trattoria on my blog but if you send me your email I'll email it to you...
Also - not sure if I'd describe the bachelors who congregate at our favourite trattoria to eat carbonara as "eye candy" exactly. ;)
I love Fassi! great gelato and great space, glad it is managing to survive in the neighborhood :)!
Is his trattoria illegal?
An expat friend took me to a place in Trastevere. Amazing food but they don't have a proper license. Therefore they only serve "friends" in case the police bust them.
nyc/caribbean - yeah, that's a possibility. But it's on street level with a big "trattoria" sign outside. Surely if it was illegal he'd want to keep things a bit more on the low-down?
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